Oxford, 6/08/08
Don March 30th, 2009
On Friday evening [the 6th], the faculty were invited to High Table at Christ Church, the largest of the Oxford colleges, whose Great Hall was used as the dining hall at Hogwarts in the Harry Potter films. Apparently, pumpkin juice is not served on those days when the Muggles are eating there, so I cannot keep my promise to report on its potable potential. But High Table in Formal Hall is certainly worth reporting on in its own right.
The students [at the lower tables] all rise while the faculty and their guests process in wearing full formal academic regalia and take their places at the high table on the dais, below the grand portraits of Henry VIII and Cardinal Wolsey, the founders of ‘the house,’ as the locals call Christ Church, the only college in the world whose chapel is also the local cathedral. Then grace is said in Latin and all are seated and served a three course meal: smoked salmon and cantaloupe salad, lamb chops, and strawberry tart on Friday. I was seated across from the Canon of Christ Church Cathedral, who was presiding–in Dumbledore’s spot, of course. The major duty of the presiding member of faculty is to approve the wine before it is served to everyone else, by sniffing it and then giving the butler an ever so subtle nod of the head. Gowns are not compulsory for guests, but I was wishing mine had not been too bulky to pack. I was feeling a bit underdressed in a mere suit and tie, though my main feeling was the wish that the University of Georgia’s colors [Go Dawgs] could have been represented there at least that once. At least I was not the only one in such straits. But perhaps it helped dissuade me from the folly of arising like Dumbledore to say three words.
On Saturday we had a field trip to the ruins of Glastonbury Abbey and the very well preserved Wells Cathedral. According to legend, the first church in Britain was founded at Glastonbury by Joseph of Arimathea, who came there as a missionary in AD 63, dispersed from Jerusalem along with many other Christians by the Neronian persecution. Oh, yes, and by the way, he brought the Holy Grail with him. History cannot confirm the Legend, but it does verify a Christian presence going all the way back into the 500’s; so I for one take pleasure in the fact that, if the legendary story cannot be proved, neither has it been disproved.
In the 1100’s, monks exavating for an expansion of the church found a grave containing the bodies of a man and a woman and a plaque that read ‘Hic jacet Arturus, Rex Britannorum.’ Here lies Arthur, King of the Britons. Though some cynical persons believe that this was just a publicity stunt on the part of monks trying to increase the traffic of pilgrims, the bodies of Arthur and Guinnevere were reinterred with great pomp in a black marble tomb under the high altar before the watchful eyes of Henry I. If our knowledge of human nature lends some support to the cynics, it should be balanced by the fact that Glastonbury is in fact in the very heart of Arthurian country, and the nearby hill Glastonbury Tor is thought by many to be the historic Isle of Avalon, for during that period the ocean came in and flooded the land around it, so that it was in fact an island. Topped with a 14th century stone tower, it today reminds you of nothing so much as Weathertop, giving a splendid view of the surrounding countryside.
Glastonbury became the largest and, after Westminster, the second most wealthy monastery in England. In 1539, it was dissolved and sacked by the gold-ravenous Henry VIII, along with every other monastic foundation in the country. So insatiable was his greed that he even destroyed the tomb of Arthur. [The magnificent tomb of St. Thomas a Becket in Canterbury, goal of Chaucer's Canterbury pilgrims, met a similar fate.] Abbot Whiting, 80 years old and frail, was hanged, drawn, and quartered. The magnificent Gothic buildings fell into ruin and were scavenged for stones that ended up in local houses and barns. What remains is one of the most beautiful and haunting sites in all of England.
Nearby Wells Cathedral is one of the most elegant of Gothic churches, soaring heavenward as is the virtue of the Gothic style, but without the over-business on the inside that is sometimes its fault. It is marked by a unique set of ’scissor arches’ that look as if they were part of the original design, but were actually added later to overcome settling from the excessive weight of the tower, and by the second oldest clock in England, still keeping excellent time after 600 years. There are two knights on horseback who joust with one another on a circular track whenever the clock strikes. One has a hinge in his back, and the poor fellow thus always loses, only to be set upright again inside the wall so he can emerge for another go against his ever victorious rival. It is the medieval version of Lucy and Charlie Brown and the football.
And so we come to the Lord’s Day, a day of rest and worship that leaves one curiously unsatisfied here. For one must choose between, it would seem, a traditional Anglican service full of beauty and devoid of the Gospel, or else pay for biblical content in the sermon by enduring something chillingly chummy. Well, I suppose most people have the same dilemma anywhere, but it seems especially irksome here, where the local pulpits have been filled by the likes of Wycliffe, Latimer, Newman, and even one Jack Lewis a time or two. Sigh.
From the Dreaming Spires,
Don
Donald T. Williams, PhD, Co-Director
Summit Oxford Summer Studies Program
- Oxford/England
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